Boracay: The Definition of Paradise

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Boracay. The name alone has an exotic ring to it and brings to mind images of pure paradise. I first heard the name of this small island about 6 years ago when I moved to Korea. Many Koreans talked about it as a top honeymoon destination and most of my foreign friends bragged about their cheap backpacking adventures there. Now it’s my turn to brag a little.

The first thing you need to know is that there are two main ways to get to Boracay. I always go for the cheapest but most complicated and time consuming route, (which I usually end up regretting.) We flew into Kalibo airport from Manila. The flight was only $35 USD so I couldn’t argue with that. From Kalibo airport you can take a 2 hour bus to the Caticlan ferry port and from there, Boracay is just a 15 minute ferry ride away. Island Star Ferry does a door-to-door service that includes the bus and ferry ticket, although you have to pay your own way to your hotel once you arrive in Boracay (Island Star Ferry). If you don’t mind spending a bit more, you can fly directly into the Caticlan airport and then hop right on the ferry.

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Landing in Kalibo

The options for accommodations in Boracay are overwhelming, but when you see how small the island is, you really can’t go wrong. Boracay is basically a long strip of land with one main road going through the middle and a long beach on either side. White Beach is the most famous beach. During the day it’s popular for relaxing, swimming, or going out on a boat for some island hopping adventures. At night, White Beach is a hot spot for the nightlife. Restaurants, bars and clubs are lined up along the coast and they set up tables and chairs right on the beach.  Bulabog beach is on the other side and is mostly for windsurfing. We decided to stay at a hostel on Bulabog beach and we were both really happy with that decision. White Beach is a 5 minute walk across the main road from Bulabog beach and it’s also much quieter at night. We stayed at Jeepney Hostel and booked a private room for around $40 USD per night. Accommodations in Boracay can get really steep if you’re the resort type of traveler so hostels are great options. I would highly recommend Jeepney. There is a restaurant and three bars right at the hostel and it has a great vibe for solo travellers who want to meet people. It’s also right on Bulabog beach. Here are some pics of our private room:

We arrived at night and after a long day of travelling, I wanted our first full day in Boracay to be a relaxing beach day, but we were quickly persuaded by our hostel to join them the next day on a booze cruise and island hopping. Unlimited drinks included=not a difficult decision to make.

The next day we woke up early to get a few hours of beach time in before our booze cruise adventure. When we got back to the hostel, the staff started coming around putting glitter on everybody’s faces. Then a group of Boracay natives came to warm us up with some drumming. Soon after, we were armed with rum and cokes and on our way to the beach. The boozing was well on its way before the cruise even started. Little did I know of what was in store for the day ahead.

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Glittered Up and Ready for the Booze Cruise!
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Boracay Native Drummers

After some drinking and dancing on the boat, we arrived at Magic Island. I noticed right away signs that said “10 meter” “9 meter” and “7 meter.” Not more than a few minutes after we arrived, some of our new friends were diving and backflipping off of a 10 meter cliff. I barely had the chance to grab my camera, and my boyfriend did a daring dive off the highest cliff. I immediately knew that I would not be participating in this activity. It’s not so much that I am afraid of heights, but the idea of jumping off of something terrifies me. I watched everyone while sitting back enjoying my rum and coke. About 30 minutes later I realized that a bit further down were some “baby” jumps- a 3 meter and a 5 meter. I figured that I would be able to conquer the 3 meter. In my day, I have jumped off of some boats and small bridges so I figured, what the hell. But when I actually walked the plank and looked down, I couldn’t find the courage to do it. As I get older I seem to be getting less and less daring. When I first went over to the “baby” jumps nobody was there, but as I continued to hesitate, more people came over and jumped off. I think they were trying to encourage me, but instead I just became more nervous. I had a group of cheerleaders at one point and I knew I had to do it. So, if everyone is jumping off a cliff would you do it too? Well, in this case, yes! It took me an embarrassing amount of time to finally build up the courage, but I did! And to be honest, the worse part was getting a noseful of water. By the time I finally did it, we were getting ready for the next island. We went to one more spot to enjoy some swimming, snorkeling and a beautiful sunset.

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The next day we took a short but steep morning hike up to the top of Mount Luho to check out the gorgeous views of Boracay. It’s only about a 20 minute hike from Jeepney hostel, but you can also take a tricycle or hop on a motor bike.

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View from Mount Luho
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View from Mount Luho

The rest of the week was mostly spent relaxing on the beach and trying out some restaurants in the evenings for dinner. We decided to save our activities and excursions for our last stop-Bohol Island. In hindsight, Boracay was the highlight of our trip and we wish we would have stayed an extra day or two there. It’s a place I would highly recommend and to which I would definitely consider traveling again someday.

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White Beach, Boracay
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White Beach, Boracay

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Sunset Panorama of White Beach
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Boracay Sunset

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I Love Olongapo

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Before travelling to the Philippines, I didn’t know much more than the average person does. When you think of the Philippines, what is the first thing that comes to mind? For me, I imagined an exotic array of islands bordered with white sandy beaches and crystal clear water just like the images from the Travel Channel or National Geographic.  But what also came to mind was the darker side: the dangerous city of Manila corrupted with the drug and sex trade of which most tourists are warned to steer clear. I found both of these sides of the Philippines to be true, but I also learned so much more.

Did you know the Philippines is a chain of 7,107 islands? I found that every Filipino I came in contact with was eager to share this tid bit of information and they actually have a song about it that children memorize in elementary school. Now I will never forget this fact. I was also surprised to find that most Filipinos can speak at least 4-5 languages. Filipino (Tagalog) and English are their two official languages; however, most can also speak a combination of both called “Taglish.” They can also speak one or more of the dozens of indigenous languages from the various regions and some can even speak Spanish. Having English as an official language made the Philippines one of the easiest Asian countries for me to navigate. While listening to the radio, it was entertaining to hear the mesh of English, Tagalog, and Spanish blend together. Most TV channels are American and broadcast in English without subtitles or dubbing. Coming from Korea, it was quite a luxury to be able to use English freely. After spending just over 2 weeks in the Philippines and exploring a small fraction of the islands, I gained an appreciation for their history and culture.

It was early evening when my boyfriend and I landed in the Manila airport after a 4 hour flight from Incheon. Little did we know that we would not be meeting his brother until much later that evening. Everything seemed to be flowing smoothly. Our flight landed a bit early, we grabbed a taxi to the bus terminal, and we bought our tickets for the 4 hour bus to Olongapo City, which is where we would be meeting his brother and sister-in-law. Then we hit Manila traffic. I’ve been stuck in traffic in places like Los Angeles and Seoul and I thought that traffic could not get any worse. Manila traffic is a whole different animal. It took us 3 hours just to get through Manila. The infrastructure of the city is horrible! There seems to be one main highway that goes through the city and one main train, which looked so jam-packed that I would rather spend 3 hours on a bus than a minute on the train. After crawling out of the city (we literally could have walked faster) it took another 2 1/2 hours to get to Olongapo City. Traveling in the Philippines is not as glamorous as it sounds. You don’t just hop on a plane and hop off onto a luxurious island. Getting to these islands requires hours on buses, ferries, smaller boats, and finally the local form of transportation, “jeepneys” or tricycles.

When we finally arrived, it was almost midnight. I was so exhausted at that point that I just wanted to pass out, but I knew my boyfriend would want to spend some time catching up with his brother. We were warmly greeted by his brother and sister-in-law and quickly taken to his brother’s Korean restaurant, “Chinku,” which means friend in English. It was comforting to eat some familiar Korean food after our long journey. After that, we had a drink at nice bar right alongside the sea. Sitting outside and drinking beer without being layered up in my winter gear was so refreshing. That night we expected to stay with my boyfriend’s brother, but they surprised us by getting us a hotel room for the night. This was the first of many surprises throughout the week.

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The Best Korean in Olongapo City- Chin Ku Korean Restaurant

Even though his brother and sister-in-law were busy running their restaurant, they still managed to take care of us and plan many exciting adventures for the week. They took us all around Olongapo City, a beautiful city surrounded by mountains and lined with beaches. The theme of Olongapo seems to be love. It may have been because Valentine’s Day was right around the corner, but there were scattered signs that read, “I Love Olongapo” and little heart decorations could be seen almost everywhere. Because Olongapo City is located on Subic Bay, which is home to a US Naval Base, there are many Americans living there. Also because of the Han Jin shipbuilding company, there are many Koreans living in Olongapo. At times it felt like I was right at home either in Korea or in America rather than on an exotic island. On a trip to the local grocery store, I was overwhelmed to find that the grocery stores are just like those back home complete with a wide variety of American brand-name products and even a deli!  I was a bit envious of this considering the grocery stores in Seoul are limited to Korean brands and overall are pretty pathetic. We loaded up on tropical fruit- mangos, mangosteen, papaya, dragonfruit, and more! My boyfriend and I ate more mangos in a week than most people eat in a year.

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Subic Bay, Olongapo
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Subic Bay, Olongapo
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View from the apartment

On our second full day in Olongapo, we went island hopping and explored the deserted islands of Capones and the almost deserted island of Anawangin. These are islands that local Filipinos go to as a weekend getaway and are not popular for foreigners so it was pretty cool to have the chance to check them out.

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Capones Islands

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Anawangin Island

My boyfriend’s sister-in-law comes from a big religious family and possibly one of the nicest families I have ever met. She is one of nine siblings. Her father is a pastor of a small Christian church located in the mountainous village of where she grew up. On Sunday we had the opportunity to visit the church and feed the village children who are very poor and often are unable to afford to eat. Every other Sunday this church provides the children with a meal. This experience became one of the most memorable and humbling moments of our trip. The children came excitedly to the church with their own bowls or containers in hand. One boy in particular, no older than 5 or 6 years old, walked barefoot 3 hours through the mountains by himself just to eat a meal. Hearing some of the stories of these children was touching, but seeing how grateful and gracious they were was unforgettable. These children literally have nothing, but if their friends needed more rice porridge or if they had an extra piece of candy, they shared. If they were given something, they said thank you and did not ask for more. Later, I talked to my boyfriend’s sister-in-law about the church and she explained that she used to be like one of the children. She grew up in the same village often only eating one meal a day. She sees herself in the children, which is why it is so meaningful for her to give back to this community.

That evening we were invited to enjoy a traditional Filipino meal. After eating mostly Korean food so far, I was excited to try some local cuisine. A Filipino meal mostly consists of fish, chicken or pork with vegetables and rice. Nothing too crazy, right? Well that was until after we had a few rounds of Filipino fruit wine and we started talking about some of the more interesting foods that they eat. One of which is called, Balut, which is basically a duck embryo. Upon hearing that we hadn’t tried Balut yet, one of the brothers ran out for a quick minute and came back with a bag of eggs. I was nervous to try them, but was curious enough to actually follow through with it. It wasn’t awful, but definitely not something I would be craving to try again anytime soon.

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Skeptically trying Balut for the first time….

During the rest of our time in Olongapo we checked out some tourist spots such as the National Shrine at Mount Samat and a newer attraction, Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar.

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Mount Samat
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Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

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We even had the chance to check out an exclusive resort for the day and have a taste of how the rich and famous live.

During my short time in Olongapo, I was able to experience a wide range of Filipino lifestyles. There is a lot more to the Philippines than their beautiful beaches. And this was just the beginning of our journey. Next stop- Boracay!